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PURLEDER
Dense pebbled grain breaking against a smooth panel, divided by a single hand-set saddle stitch

Togo

A vegetable-tanned calf leather with a Togo-style pebbled grain.

The shrinking happens naturally, drawn out slowly through plant tannins rather than forced by chemistry. Light in the hand, resistant to scratches, carrying the faint scent of bark. Togo holds its structure while developing a deep, living patina over years of use.

What it is

A full-grain calf leather, tanned entirely with plant tannins and then milled in the drum until the characteristic uneven grain draws up. The grain is grown, not embossed: every hide shows a pattern of its own.

How it is made

After weeks in the tannin baths the hide goes into the milling drum. The motion draws the tannin-saturated fibre together and the grain lifts. On a plant-tanned hide this step takes more time and more control than it would on chrome leather, and in return the hand stays dry and warm rather than rubbery.

Hands pressing a pricking iron into a pale undyed vegetable-tanned panel, the natural crust colour showing
Konstantin Evdokimov / Unsplash
Fissured oak bark in close-up, russet plates and deep shadowed clefts, the source of the tannin
Jude Infantini / Unsplash

Data sheet

Typical per batch. Binding figures come with every delivery.

Substance
1.2 - 1.4 mm
Weight
900 g/m²
Hand
Dry, firm, warm
Scratch resistance
High. The lifted grain forgives a lot
Tannins
Oak, Chestnut, Mimosa
Finishing
Drum-milled, no surface coating
In water
Darkens temporarily, evens out as it dries

Honestly: vegetable-tanned leather darkens temporarily when it gets wet. That is not a fault but the consequence of an open fibre with no barrier coat. The colour evens out again as it dries.

How it ages

Vegetable-tanned leather changes more than chrome leather does, and it changes in one direction: darker, warmer, glossier wherever it is handled.

  1. New

    Open grain, pale tone, matte hand. The scent is at its strongest.

  2. After one year

    The first handled areas begin to shine. The tone has taken a step towards cognac.

  3. After three years

    Edges and corners are visibly darker. The leather is softer without losing its body.

  4. After five years

    A closed patina. Two pieces from the same batch no longer look alike.

The colour fields are an indication, not a photograph. A real ageing sample from the same hide comes with every sample set.

Crafted into

Firm enough for bags that hold a shape, soft enough for small goods that live in a hand all day.

Structured bagsSmall leather goodsStraps and belts