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PURLEDER
Cognac full-grain hide falling into soft folds around a stitched handle, the pebbled grain lifting where the light rakes across it

Mill

Vegetable-tanned leather, milled soft.

Longer in the drum, deeper in the structure. Mill falls heavy and soft, settles into quiet folds and takes on every movement. A leather that hangs rather than stands.

What it is

The same plant-tanned full-grain hide as Togo, milled considerably longer. The extended motion loosens the fibre bundle until the leather falls soft and the grain lifts into a deep, irregular structure.

How it is made

The milling is the real intervention. It takes several times as long as Togo and cannot be shortened: too little and the structure stays flat, too much and the leather loses its body. The point between the two is judged by hand, not by a clock.

Pale limed hides hanging in a tannery before tanning, their raw edges curling
m0851 / Unsplash
A leatherworker drawing a strap taut across his knee in the doorway of his workshop
Aysegul Aytören / Unsplash

Data sheet

Typical per batch. Binding figures come with every delivery.

Substance
1.4 - 1.6 mm
Weight
1,000 g/m²
Hand
Heavy, soft, falling
Scratch resistance
Medium. Marks disappear into the structure
Tannins
Oak, Chestnut, Quebracho
Finishing
Long-milled, no surface coating
In water
Darkens temporarily, evens out as it dries

Honestly: vegetable-tanned leather darkens temporarily when it gets wet. That is not a fault but the consequence of an open fibre with no barrier coat. The colour evens out again as it dries.

How it ages

Vegetable-tanned leather changes more than chrome leather does, and it changes in one direction: darker, warmer, glossier wherever it is handled.

  1. New

    Open grain, pale tone, matte hand. The scent is at its strongest.

  2. After one year

    The first handled areas begin to shine. The tone has taken a step towards cognac.

  3. After three years

    Edges and corners are visibly darker. The leather is softer without losing its body.

  4. After five years

    A closed patina. Two pieces from the same batch no longer look alike.

The colour fields are an indication, not a photograph. A real ageing sample from the same hide comes with every sample set.

Crafted into

For pieces meant to fall rather than stand. The structure carries a large panel without reading as empty.

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