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PURLEDER
A structured flap bag in fine pressed-grain leather that holds its shape

Epsom

Vegetable-tanned leather with a fine, pressed grain in the Epsom style.

The strictest hand. A fine, regular, pressed grain that barely takes a scratch and holds its shape like a board. The one leather in the range whose grain is deliberately pressed on, not grown.

What it is

A vegetable-tanned full-grain leather whose surface is given a fine, even grain under pressure. Unlike Togo, Mill or Nappa, this grain is pressed, not grown. We say so plainly, because honesty about the surface belongs to this leather.

How it is made

After tanning, the dry, firm hide is pressed with an engraved plate. Here the regular grain is wanted and right: it makes the surface hard-wearing and dimensionally stable. The press sits in a fully plant-tanned hide, not in cheap corrected stock.

Fissured oak bark in close-up, russet plates and deep shadowed clefts, the source of the tannin
Jude Infantini / Unsplash
A leatherworker drawing a strap taut across his knee in the doorway of his workshop
Aysegul Aytören / Unsplash

Data sheet

Typical per batch. Binding figures come with every delivery.

Substance
1.1 - 1.3 mm
Weight
900 g/m²
Hand
Firm, dry, structured
Scratch resistance
Very high. The pressed grain barely marks
Tannins
Chestnut, Quebracho
Finishing
Pressed grain, no heavy coating
In water
Darkens temporarily, evens out as it dries

Honestly: vegetable-tanned leather darkens temporarily when it gets wet. That is not a fault but the consequence of an open fibre with no barrier coat. The colour evens out again as it dries.

How it ages

Vegetable-tanned leather changes more than chrome leather does, and it changes in one direction: darker, warmer, glossier wherever it is handled.

  1. New

    Open grain, pale tone, matte hand. The scent is at its strongest.

  2. After one year

    The first handled areas begin to shine. The tone has taken a step towards cognac.

  3. After three years

    Edges and corners are visibly darker. The leather is softer without losing its body.

  4. After five years

    A closed patina. Two pieces from the same batch no longer look alike.

The colour fields are an indication, not a photograph. A real ageing sample from the same hide comes with every sample set.

Crafted into

For structured pieces taken roughly in daily use: rigid bags, cases, luggage.

Structured bagsCases and foliosLuggage